Prince Edward Island, Canada--Gentle Natural Beauty and Anne of Green Gables

     Besides enjoying Nova Scotia in August (see an earlier post about a gorgeous Canadian National Park there), we also spent four nights on Prince Edward Island. Many people know Prince Edward Island as the setting for a series of classic children's novels from the early 1900s, beginning with Anne of Green Gables by Lucy Maud Montgomery, on which popular movies and television specials have been based. The author lived near Cavendish on the island's north shore as a child and chose her friends' nearby house as the home which took in the imaginative, fictional orphan Anne. The house and grounds are restored to the late 1800s as in the stories and are fun and interesting to visit (more so than I expected). 

     The first photo above shows the Wood Island Lighthouse as seen from the ferry as we approached. Built in 1876, the lighthouse still operates as well as housing a museum. For fun and variety (as well as convenience, given our planned touring route in Canada) we used the ferry going to Prince Edward Island and the impressive Confederation Bridge leaving the province. Two photos from the Green Gables site are followed by other island scenes.

     Prince Edward Island claims to have the warmest salt water north of the Carolinas (it felt wonderful) and has a variety of lovely beaches, some with white sand; others rimmed with red sandstone cliffs producing reddish sand. Our central location on the south coast in the provincial capital, Charlottetown, allowed for easy exploring. Lazy drives and detours onto unknown gravel side roads led to a surprising range of sights, from lush farm land (often planted right to the edge of a seaside cliff or nearly to a beach area) to gentle forests and meadows. 











     Prosperous towns and villages, with thriving fishing, shell fishing, and tourist services all seemed to have lovely historic churches and other buildings, not to mention delightful cafes and shops. St. Augustine Catholic Church, built in 1838, is the oldest church in the province. Many Protestant churches also grace the towns and countryside, including a number of United churches, a merger that includes Presbyterian, Congregational, and other denominations.

St. Augustine Catholic Church

Interior of St. Augustine 

A typical country United Church

     More details, both from Prince Edward Island and continued exploration of Nova Scotia, will follow in future posts. Happy travels!

Question of the day: Have you heard of the Anne of Green Gables story or movies? I have been amazed at the number of people who have mentioned knowing her story.

New Orleans Visit, Part II -- Botanical Gardens and Metairie Cemetery

The one day in New Orleans that we took our car out of the hotel's parking lot, we drove to Metairie Cemetery, which is an interesting combination of old tombs and current burial areas. Some New Orleans cemeteries are even older, but they are crowded with a jumble of mausoleums that serve, unfortunately, as cover for muggers and others. Visitors are advised to go there at the busiest times, perhaps with a guided group. Since our purpose was to visit a "drivable" cemetery and see the above-ground burial which the high water table and frequent heavy soaking of the ground requires in this area, Metairie was just right. New Orleans' largest cemetery, it covers over 65 acres (web sites seem to differ on its exact size), and was established in 1873 on the site of a former racetrack. The grounds are beautifully kept, a peaceful "park" full of birds singing their hearts out. Mausoleums of many leading families, tombs of former governors and mayors, and towering military memorials share the grounds with lavish displays by less upstanding (though certainly no less wealthy) citizens, such as the elaborate tomb of Josie Arlington, once the leading madam of Storyville.

Not far from that cemetery, New Orleans boasts a 1,300 acre city park, which includes the Carousel Gardens Amusement Park, the New Orleans Museum of Art, and many other scenic features and recreation centers. We strolled through the botanical gardens there (a treat for my master gardener husband). One photo from the gardens shows the conservatory (in a style complementing the main Pavilion across the promenade) which houses a tropical rain forest exhibit and "living fossils", plants with a lineage going back to prehistoric times. The other garden photo shows a corner of the Japanese Garden section.

We were very fortunate with our weather while we were in New Orleans (mid-March)--quite warm each day (mid to upper 80s), but not oppressive or excessively humid and beautifully clear, as you can see. I had made plans for activities we could have done if we had heavy rain or too much heat for extended time outside, but will save those for another visit. As I mentioned in the previous post, New Orleans exceeded my expectations as a fascinating destination, with much to see and do for visitors with a variety of interests.

Question of the day: When and where have cemeteries been among the attractions you have visited in your travels?

Exploring--Charming Chattanooga, Tennessee

We spent a delightful 10 days after Easter visiting dear friends in North Georgia and beloved family members in Chattanooga, Tennessee. In both places, we enjoyed some fascinating sight seeing as well as meaningful time together in conversation with people who mean a great deal to us. The whole region was showing off its spring bounty of bright green foliage, blossoming trees, bushes, and bright flowers in spectacular, warmer than average weather.

Today, I am showing a few photos from downtown Chattanooga, set on the lovely Tennessee River at the foot of both Lookout and Signal Mountains. If you visited Chattanooga 10 or more years ago or if you have a mental image of it as a decaying industrial city, you would be amazed at the transformation of the central city. The Aquarium (one wing of it pictured here) is the most interesting, educational, and just plain beautiful aquarium I have visited. When it was built, planners began to beautify the entire nearby riverfront area so that it gradually became a stunning destination. The grand brick, white columned art museum gained a sleek modern art companion next door. A wide walkway down to the Tennessee River from the Bluffs Art District, with galleries, restaurants, and specialty shops, commemorates the cruel resettlement of the local Cherokee tribe out west. Lined with inset Cherokee symbols (you see the first few in the photo), the walk incorporates a waterfall symbolizing the infamous Trail of Tears and ends in a fountain spraying into the river. The entire area is beautifully landscaped. One overlook in the Bluffs district houses a sculpture garden; a couple pieces are in the foreground of the river view photo.

Although we often wish we lived closer to our brothers and sisters (we have 3 siblings each), one advantage of being spread out in various states is that any visit to family allows us to explore a unique area of this wonderful land. Plus, we have free accommodations (!) and people we love in varied areas we enjoy exploring.

Question of the day: What destination would you suggest to other readers--a place that might surprise them and exceed their expectations?

Exploring--Croatia's Plitvice Lakes National Park

Memories . . . In early autumn last year, we were privileged to travel in Eastern Europe for four weeks. Croatia's magical Plitvice Lakes National Park was a highlight of our time in that beautiful nation (formerly part of Yugoslavia). For the middle two weeks of our trip, we joined a guided tour of Slovenia, Croatia, and Bosnia-Herzegovina sponsored by the Rick Steves company (of public television fame). If you are interested in earlier posts about those destinations, simply enter "Eastern Europe" in the search box, above left. As I reminisce about that wonderful journey, I will post a time or two about our overnight visit and long trek in Plitvice Lakes National Park, one destination I had anticipated eagerly. This stunning park exceeded even my high expectations.

Photos cannot capture the full majesty of the lush, heavily forested park with 16 terraced lakes and countless waterfalls. The amazingly clear water shines in brilliant aqua or clear greenish tones due to the limestone-laden soils and rocks in the area. Bears, wolves, lynx, wild boar, and a rich variety of other animals, birds, and fish populate this protected area, one of the last remaining virgin forests in Europe.

We arrived late one afternoon, settled into a large, comfortable hotel in the park, and enjoyed a pre-planned "potluck" happy hour on the lake shore with our tour group, for which we had each purchased wine, sausage, cheese, chocolates, and other delights during the day. Dinner in the hotel was tasty, but hardly seemed necessary after that. Following an early, sumptuous breakfast buffet the next morning, we stowed our luggage on the tour bus, hoisted our day packs, and boarded a shuttle bus to a ferry dock. To avoid the crowds at this popular park, our excellent Rick Steves guide, Saso Golub, wisely guided us to begin at the furthest point of our trek, via a ferry across one of the larger lakes. His strategy worked beautifully--we saw the most dramatic falls before others crowded in, and we hiked in the opposite direction of the heaviest flow of visitors. The park offers a variety of hiking options on wide walking trails and sturdy plank walkways over rushing streams and gullies. The cold clear air of the early morning gave way to bracing, cool, delicious temperatures, perfect for hiking.

If you want to see more of the park and to learn about its dynamic ecosystem and shifting bodies of water and land formations, check your local public library for a DVD, which I think was originally a PBS program, Nature:Land of the Falling Lakes. In Plitvice, the water gradually wears down the land so that the lakes, streams, and waterfalls actually move over time. Then, the limestone deposits that erosion leaves in the water gradually build up again on fallen trees and branches underwater and on the lake bed itself so that over time, natural earth dams and eventually, new land areas are formed.

Next time, I will share a few more photos and memories from this magnificent park. Although we have grander individual waterfalls, vaster mountains, and deeper valleys in our beloved USA, the cumulative delights of the sheer numbers of waterfalls and rapids around every turn in Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia and the "forest primeval" atmosphere are unique and quite magical.

Question of the day: What natural preserve area has given you lasting memories?

Exploring--Wisconsin's Beautiful Lakes & Precious Family Time

For the third and final post answering the age-old question, "What Did You Do on Your Summer Vacation?", I have a taste of our visit with members of our extended family.

Late in June, we enjoyed a delightful change of scenery from our coastal North Florida home visiting people we love in Wisconsin. My husband's siblings and their families live in the Chicago area and in Wisconsin. A festive high school graduation party for Mark's niece provided an opportunity for all of us to gather in Wisconsin. Since he and I could get away for a couple of weeks, we made it a road trip and took the dog. Having written about our side trip to the Apostle Islands, this post covers the majority of our time away.

Mark's brother and wife have recently purchased a lake cottage near Oshkosh, a relatively short drive from their home, fulfilling a long-held dream. They generously offered it to us as our headquarters for our visit, so we felt totally pampered. Of course, it did mean that we were in the chosen gathering place for any and all that were free during the day or evening--but that was super, since precious family time together was the reason for our journey.

Their lake home faces west, and I have more sunset photos than you ever want to see. Every evening provided a different, majestic display while we sipped cool beverages and felt like royalty. During our stay, we played in the refreshing, clear water, took walks on nature trails, enjoyed boat rides, and feasted on scrumptious, fresh-caught fish. This lake is part of a chain of lakes along the Fox River. Boating along the chain provides a variety of scenery, from marshy or forested preserve land, to vacation cabins old and new, to impressive full-time water-side homes, to trendy city waterfront with dock-side restaurants and clubs.

We, and our adventure-loving Shih-tzu, Magnolia, aka Maggie, are thankful for Dick & Marlys' generous sharing of their lake home, for all the members of our beloved extended family, and for the varied beauty of our wonderful nation. Our time in Wisconsin this summer provided a well of memories to keep us going during less enjoyable or less relaxed days in the future.

Question of the day: What good times with friends or family and/or experiences of natural beauty from recent months have filled your well with memories and gratitude?

Exploring--Wisconsin, Lake Superior's Apostle Islands, Part II

Last post, I began describing a side trip we took during a visit to relatives in Wisconsin. Even though we have explored many areas in this lovely state, we had not yet seen the Apostle Islands in Lake Superior. After telling you about our home base in Bayfield last time, it is time to show you the islands themselves. 

The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, part of the National Park System, includes 21 heavily wooded islands. We took a narrated cruise to see them and to hear about their history, including sagas of fur traders, missionaries, shipwrecks and ghostly, howling sea caves. Exploration by Europeans dates back at least to the mid 1600s. The weather was beautiful, warmer than normal on Lake Superior, with bright sunshine early and beautiful clouds building during our ride. The lower left photo shows a typical wooded island, in this case, the shore of Hermit Island with beautiful, rosy sandstone cliffs. The remains of fish camps dating back to a thriving industry in the 1800s dot the shore of a couple of islands; we could see the remains of sandstone quarries on others. Another photo shows the Raspberry Island's light station and outbuildings, parts of which date back to 1864; there are 7 lighthouses on the islands. Other islands boast sandy beaches, large blueberry and raspberry patches, and sites where artifacts have been found dating back to human settlements from 3,000 or more years ago.

Another afternoon, a short ferry ride took us to Madeline Island, the largest island in the chain (not a part of the National Lakeshore), where fewer than 200 year-round residents enjoy living in charming bungalows or some of the stately homes that were the fashionable summer "cottages" of the wealthy for a few decades in the early 1900s. We enjoyed a long, lazy stroll in the village, with its historic Catholic church, old library, and former town hall, topped off by scrumptious homemade ice cream in one of the shops. The top left photo shows our view of the island as we approached it by ferry. 

For a peaceful, laid-back break from a busy vacation to see family members, exploring the Apostle Islands was perfect for us--there is little appeal here for vacationers looking for parties, night life and glitz. Visitors also enjoy camping, bird watching, fishing, water sports, winter sports, and several seasonal festivals. 

In spite of the number of times we have visited Wisconsin, we find creative travel opportunities and new areas to explore every time we go. Of course, we love the familiar, memory laden places, too, and were pleased that including some of each provided relaxation and balance during our time away this summer.

Question of the day: If you have vacationed often in the same area, do you most enjoy renewing your love of the familiar places and activities or do you seek out new sights--or some of each?

Exploring--Wisconsin, Lake Superior's Apostle Islands

Creative travel includes discovering new places to explore in frequently visited areas. As we planned a trip to visit relatives in Wisconsin this summer, Mark suggested that we allow extra time to see the Apostle Islands, just off Wisconsin's Lake Superior coast. Although we have seen much of Wisconsin over the years, we had not yet ventured all the way north to see these remote, historic, and beautiful islands.

Our home base for exploring was Bayfield, a charming, artsy mainland town perched on Wisconsin's northernmost point, overlooking Chequamegon Bay and some of the islands. The photo above on the right shows this picturesque town, looking back from the main ferry dock. We found a small, reasonably priced motel with a relaxing view of the bay and this dock from our balcony. In town, we enjoyed choosing from a range of restaurants, cafes, and coffee shops for meals, browsing a variety of fascinating galleries and a few shops (there are many, but we are not tourist shop devotees), and simply strolling the streets and lanes. Some homes and shops date back to earlier years in this 150 year old village, and each corner turned--especially as we strolled uphill on the winding streets--provided a lovely new glimpse of water, harbor, islands, and sky. Sunrise or sunset walks were refreshing gifts for our souls, with some of the freshest breezes you can imagine. The other photos show a few of the working and pleasure boats we saw as we explored Bayfield, WI. Next post, I will show you the islands themselves.  

We both love natural waterscapes. At home, we spend time at nearby Atlantic Ocean beaches, or small lakes in our parks, exploring salt marshes, or sailing on our magnificent St. Johns River. Away from home, we also tend to seek out bodies of water, marinas, harbors, fishing boats, and sailboats. You may have noticed that many of my landscapes also include a view of water, sometimes as a major feature, other times just glimpsed somewhere in the scene. I never really planned to paint water so frequently; it just happens as I paint what I love.

Since my childhood years near Lake Michigan, I continue to seek out water and am deeply nourished simply by being near water or gazing out over it. On some primitive level, I need river, lake, or sea to feel whole. Although I love to explore a variety of natural environments and have been fascinated by visits to desserts, mountains, valleys, and so much more, coming home to a rich variety of water environments and habitats brings me peace and gratitude.

Question of the day: Do you have a preference for one favorite, personally nourishing natural kind of place, or can you thrive in a variety of environments?

Exploring--Zagreb, Croatia's Capital City--An Unplanned Travel Bonus

This will be my third post about non-typical destinations in Croatia. Although Zagreb is Croatia's capital city, its location away from the famed Adriatic Coast means that relatively few travelers see the city.

We had not planned to visit Zagreb either, but had a lovely morning there as an unplanned bonus due to plane and train schedules. When our 2 week Rick Steves tour of Slovenia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and Croatia ended in the breath-taking, walled coastal city of Dubrovnik, we were at the far southern tip of Croatia with a long journey ahead of us. From there, we visited Krakow, Poland (including an unforgettable time at Auschwitz) and Budapest, Hungary on our own. The most convenient and affordable connections I had been able to arrange started with an early morning flight from Dubrovnik to Zagreb, then continued by train. Since we had several hours between our arrival at Zagreb's airport and departure by train, we made the best of the time by seeing Zagreb's center city.

Train travel in Europe abounds with similar serendipitous opportunities. Many European train stations, including those in Eastern Europe, are centrally located and offer inexpensive luggage lockers. So, that Sunday morning, we took a quick cab ride from the Zagreb airport to the train station, stowed our luggage in a locker, verified our train connection, and strolled a few park-lined blocks to a main square. Worshippers were streaming into the Neo-Gothic Catholic Cathedral, so we joined them, slipping in near the back for an uplifting treat. Croatia has a proud tradition of choral music, especially robust men's choral music, and deep, rich harmonies echoed in the vast cathedral--truly a universal spiritual language. 

Across from the church, the market was in full swing below the old city tower (see photo above). We relished the fragrant flowers, plump produce, and hand-crafted items, choosing freshly baked rolls, salami, cheese, tomatoes, and fruits for the long train journey ahead.

With almost an hour to spare, we strolled through an extensive, free, university-run botanical garden that our Rick Steves Eastern Europe guidebook had recommended. A colorful variety of early fall flowers were in bloom, while green houses boasted more exotic specimens. The two photos above only hint at the beauty--given our limited time, I took very few photos in Zagreb--mostly just breathed in the unplanned treat of a lovely, relaxing morning in a city that had not even been on our original itinerary.

We can recall similar times on other journeys. At times, even delays or cancellations that seemed disappointing at first turned into travel bonuses when we looked around creatively and took advantage of our surroundings.

Question of the day: What travel layover or delay did you turn into a memorable unplanned travel bonus?   

Exploring--Slovenia's Julian Alps & World War I History

Slovenia is so rich in charms and interesting sights that I will have a difficult time keeping this post (my third about travel in Slovenia) to a reasonable length. Leaving Lake Bled (see May 20 post), we rode through a breath-taking pass in the Julian Alps, climbing to about 5.000 feet above sea level (Slovenia's highest peak is about 9,400 feet high). First we were in dense forest, then in more forbidding, rocky terrain. At times, we were within 1/4 mile of both the Italian and Austrian borders. The constantly changing vistas were stunning and inspirational. I snapped the majestic peaks above through the bus window. 

Our amazing tour bus driver expertly steered his mighty Mercedes around the 50 switchbacks through the pass, making tight hairpin turns when at times it seemed as though we had two wheels out over nothingness. We frequently crossed or glimpsed the Soca River, narrow and fast in the mountains, its remarkable pale aqua color due to the minerals in the limestone it cuts through. We stopped once on the way down to take in the beauty and to cross a swinging bridge high over the rushing river. The center photo above is a view looking down from the bridge. At our highest point, we stopped at a mountain lodge where we sipped a homemade mixed fruit brandy our guide, Saso Golub, had brought for us--yummy!--and warm all the way down as a few snowflakes drifted by on a chilly mid-September day.

Earlier we had made a more sobering stop at the small Russian Orthodox chapel pictured on the right. This mountain pass was the scene of terrible battles in World War I and was the setting for Ernest Hemingway's A Farewell to Arms, based on his personal experiences as a Red Cross ambulance driver in the war. The very road we were traveling was built by Russian prisoners of war under appalling conditions. After several hundred had died of exposure, illness, and mistreatment, a huge March 1916 avalanche killed hundreds more. This chapel honors the work and the sacrifice of those Russian soldiers. In the town of Kobarid, an excellent museum (voted best in Europe in 1993) presents a comprehensive look at the tragic battles on the Soca Front--how the local people and soldiers on both sides suffered through that terrible time and how human dignity, honor, and inner strength still shone through.

We stayed in Kobarid at the Hotel Hvala, where I so enjoyed the generous, scrumptious dinner that I couldn't do justice to the amazing buffet breakfast spread the next morning. For those of you interested in menus, our dinner began with an excellent pasta course of fettuccine with prosciutto, then a baby greens and vegetable salad, followed by a choice of fresh roasted trout from the Soca River or roast lamb, served with greens and roasted potatoes. A warm berry compote with ice cream was the perfect finish to the meal. I won't even try to describe all the breakfast choices, but for me, the stand-outs were a warm apricot croissant and an immense bowl of cut-up fresh fruit, including kiwi, pineapple, and local fruits.

I hope these three posts have whetted your appetite for a journey to Slovenia--or to another destination you dream about. In the next few posts, I'll stay closer to home for creative everyday life. If you wonder what is "everyday" about Slovenia, well, I guess it is not. However, travel dreaming and reading, travel planning, remembering past journeys, and saving for future travel are a significant aspect of everyday life for me, even though we may only take a major journey only once in five or more years.

Question of the Day: What has been your favorite "road less traveled" destination?